Gaya Island Resort - a small luxury hotel on Borneo

Our recent Gaya Island getaway made me want to be young and in love again. Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed travelling with my toddler and in laws but the set up of the resort was made for couples with its secret nooks and crannies, secluded beaches, packaway picnics and secret beach dinners.
Within the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park off the coast of Kota Kinabalu, the resort offers beautiful views on to the clear turquoise waters and the Kinabalu Mountain Range weather permitting. The town of Kota Kinabalu is just hidden away as the resort lies in a natural bay with beautifully white sand. All the villas are perched on the lush rainforest whose sounds are deafening. What a better way to relax than closing your eyes on the comfy sun beds, letting the waiter pour you cocktails and listening to the sounds of waves lapping the beach and cicadas offering their concert.

The spacious villas are beautifully appointed, with local Sabahan elements. The bathrooms are huge and elegantly equipped, although I am not sure what the aim of the oversized bath is. I decided to treat myself one night and lit the candles by the bath and picked up my book. Disappointingly there was only enough hot water to reach up to my bum, and needless to say that there was not any hot water left for a shower either.  Each villa has a big balcony with day beds but not all come with a view. Although the lush rainforest and the well cared for gardens are views enough, so I wouldn't necessarily pay extra for the sea and mountain view.

The pool area is beautiful with a small pool bar and a swim up bar for the sun worshippers. The staff was on the ball bringing iced water around the lounge area without asking, even by the sea; a brilliant touch. Behind the pool area there is an immaculately manicured lawn area with its stress rooms. Or that's what my mother in law called them - they were small day beds for people to relax in. Although I would see them as a secret corner for honeymooners.... Some of the villas are a bit of trek away from the pool area, maybe their idea is to enable everyone to have a break from the sun, even if you don't want to walk back to your room. There is also an airy library that gave us cover during one rainy afternoon with some games and even books in Finnish. I clearly wasn't the first visitor! A big minus, though, was their decision to get rid of the kids' club room. Luckily it only rained one afternoon..... And an impromptu afternoon tea made it all better. I must be converting....

What is there to do, then? Gaya is clearly a place to relax and enjoy the sun. But the resort offers nature walks and a daily programme of cultural activities for both body and mind. We went snorkelling twice, the House reef just outside the hotel offers a good viewing opportunity of several species. The hotel offers boat transport to their private beach just few minutes away. Again, snorkelling there was quite good, shame that the visibility on both days was poor. On the beach there is a small conservation centre for turtles and fish, and a local restaurant offering lunches and cocktails so no one has to go hungry (or more importantly, thirsty). Beach towels and water included!

Eating at the resort was a bizarre experience. They only have 3 restaurant, a high market fish restaurant that was not for under 16s so we didn't try that one, a Japanese teppanayke restaurant and their main Feast Village. The first night we were forced into their buffet. It was pretty good quality but at RM100 each we found it outrageously expensive (although the in laws, fresh from Europe, were pretty pleased). Then the chef came around talking to us asking what we wanted for dinner the following day as they were changing the restaurant to a la carte but he could do us some specials. So we dabbed at some of our favourite flavours, and the following night we had a huge feast of fish, beef and chicken, all for RM150. The starters, more expensive than all that, were clearly a mistake! But as we had forgotten to invite our other friends, we asked the chef to make less food the following night and again a delicious fish with its accompaniments arrived, this time for RM100. So I don't even know what to say about dining on the island! Other than the food prepared for us was a very good quality. The grouper on both nights was succulent and meaty and accompanied with delicious sauces. Although we did loose the opportunity for gorging on amazing desserts at the buffet! Breakfast, however, gave us that opportunity as I was enjoying numerous fluffy pancakes with maple syrup each morning. And I must give a special mention to their home baked rye style bread.

I had my own treat in the Spa Village one afternoon; a super-expensive Borneo vanilla orchid and honey cocoon that I truly enjoyed. The Village is set slightly aside from the main resort, and already the walk there lets you forget that you are indeed travelling with a toddler. The set up at the spa was beautiful, and the views from the second floor treatment rooms were stunning over the Malohom Bay. As I was enjoying the sounds of the jungle and the sea with my feet soaking in a warm bath on the balcony, I could almost forget that I was ill. Whilst the prices are extortionate for the continent, the experience was very relaxing and the local products mixed at the treatment room smelled divine.

Their slogan - Distinctively Borneo - made us laugh when we arrived, as we really are quite fed up with Asian inefficiency and we were hoping they wouldn't quite live up to their slogan. The hotel did not disappoint. The villas and the whole set up is stunning. I sometimes get fed up with the rainforest but as I entered a place like this, accessible only by boat, and saw the views and the crystal clear waters, I remembered why we came to live in Brunei in the first place: to gain experiences like this with relative ease. The resort is part of Kuoni's offer and Small Luxury Hotels of the world, amongst other groups, so you can expect a certain standard. I would recommend it more to couples who can have a quick KK getaway but it is suitable for families, too. To me, there's enough to see and do for 3-4 nights with nature walks, swimming, snorkelling and enjoying the spa but as there is a limited choice for dining, I would say a week is too long. One big minus is the boat transfer costs if they are not included in the package; we booked via hotels.com and ended up paying nearly £100 for transfers from the mainland. Considering chartering a fishing boat to take you around the islands is normally around £10 for return trip for the whole boat, £100 seems a bit steep.... But getting to the island is worth it! So why spend all that money when you can go on Manukan, or the other Marine Park islands for the day. Whilst those are beautiful too, and offer the same snorkelling opportunities and white beaches, Gaya is a private island. There will be no other boats buzzing in and out of the harbour and tourists flocking on the beach for the day. The facilities are only for guests to enjoy, which makes it a relaxing experience.